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My Move to Turkey

In May 2005 my husband and I retired to Kusadasi, Turkey. We had purchased a villa in Ladies Beach and an apartment near the town centre as an investment in 2003 and looked forward to our life in the sun here in Turkey. While a few people had expressed their views re living in a Muslim country and the political unrest in the east, we were at pains to reassure them that we would be 1,000’s of miles away from the trouble and after living with the “Troubles” for over 30 years in Ireland, this would not be a problem.

Turkey is a proud nation and its people are friendly, generous and welcoming. The influx of foreigners has altered the demographics somewhat, with Irish, British, Dutch, German and French purchasing property here and enjoying the many pleasures on offer here. It is important to remember that this is a tourist resort and as such may not be typical of other towns in Turkey. You will find that there is a two-tier pricing system operating here, one for Europeans and one for Turks. This extends to all facets of life here from property to souvenir sellers in the street. There is a popular misconception that Europeans are rich, we can buy property here in cash, a feat beyond most Turks dreams. We drink a lot, eat in restaurants and trying to explain that we too have worked hard all our lives and have saved to come to live here is often an uphill battle. The other downside to all this property buying is that many properties are so far beyond the average Turk’s pocket that they are resentful and angry that they cannot afford to buy a home for themselves. Everybody is selling property, from the waiter in the bar to the guy sitting beside you in the bus! It is absolutely vital to do your homework before you come here to buy. We assume the  buying/selling process is similar to home.Wrong. There are so many variables, is it a sitesi or a co-op? How much for community fees? Do I need a solicitor? What are the hidden costs? There can be huge differences in the cost of buying between one house and another. We found many people who had seen their dream become a nightmare because there were either misinformed or ignorant of the whole process. There is big money to be earned and everyone is anxious to grab their share, The result? Thousands of estate agents opening up, grabbing the profits and leaving behind customers who struggle with the language, judicial system and Turkish bureaucracy.

We have been lucky to see many beautiful places since we moved here, Ephesus, Didim, Antalya and Marmaris. We have been to Samos in Greece for goodies like ham and bacon. Kusadasi itself is beautiful and the Mayor has been actively ensuring that monies coming in are being spent on improving the town and its environs. There is a renovated port at Scala Nova where the big cruise ships dock, full of designer shops, Burger King and my favourite, Starbucks. Imagine a sunny Sunday morning, Pidgeon Island in the distance, a frothy Frappicino with the aquamarine waters of the Aegean gentle lapping the shore. Bliss. Walk it off along the promenade watching the men fishing at the shore while the women knit and play with their children in the playground.

The shopping. Where to start. Fake designer heaven. Be prepared to haggle. This is expected and although it is amusing initially, I yearn for shops where goods are priced, where I’m not followed as soon as I enter the premises and left to browse at my leisure. It is vital to learn the numbers and how to ask the price as it gives the impression you know more than you actually do and you are therefore less likely to be fleeced! My particular trick is to stand beside a Turkish lady and listen to the price she’s given. You have to be as a Turk, shrug your shoulders, walk away but be prepared to offer a fair price at the end of the day.

Now hassling is another matter. There has been a big effort to eradicate this just this season as the feedback from tourists on this issue was very negative, to the extent that Americans in particular, were loathe to disembark in Kusadasi rather than face the barrage of hassle as soon as they went ashore. The problem is that many restaurants, shops are only open for the season and the owners/ waiters don’t work in the winter months so the pressure is on to make as much money as they can in a short space of time. A polite “no” usually works and in extreme cases a threat to telephone the police is enough to stop the worst offenders. This year, police closed down several premises, a step in the right direction.

I love the shops here, everything from cheap and cheerful to designer. No problem to have 30 pairs of shoes and matching handbags! T-shirts, shorts, jumpers so cheap as they only last a season because of the sun and are easily replaced. Everyone has a Chloe, or a Kelly or a Louis Vuitton. It’s great!

The affordability of living here is a huge attraction, especially those people living on a pension. If you shop in the local markets and supermarkets you will find your money goes a long way. Add to that the high interest rates for savings lodged here and that can cover trips home and little treats. Transport is a dream, local dolmus stops along the road for as little as 50 cents a trip, If you want to go further afield, modern air-conditioned coaches make long distance travel a pleasure at little cost.

Unfortunately, a big cost here is taxis, especially from the airport, adding 100 euros to the cost of your fare. Izmir airport does not have a shuttle bus service to the major resorts as yet. High on someone’s “To do” list I hope. <p></p>

The ex-pat community here are very organised with bingo nights, theme nights and book-swapping venues all over the town. Help and advice is also available and we have an English newspaper published every fortnight which keeps us informed about any up and coming events around town. Thanks Karen.

In summation, I would have to say we have no regrets about moving here. It has been a great learning experience which will stand us in good stead when we move on early in the New Year. I would advise anyone contemplating moving here to learn a few key sentences and words, be prepared to integrate into the Turkish community, scour the web if you are going to buy property and ask other ex-pats for advice. Don’t jump in without thinking first. What’s the hurry? As they say here, “Yavas, yavas”, slowly, slowly.